Palate Teaser: Eight Tables
Forget an amuse-bouche. The Chinese have long known about the palate-opening benefits of a series of light, cold dishes at the beginning of a heavy meal. At George Chen’s private château-style $225 tasting-menu restaurant, the practice is taken to particularly elegant heights in the form of the Jiu Gong Ge first course: a tray of nine one-bite plates, each presented gorgeously in a tiny porcelain bowl and representing a quintessential Chinese flavor: say, a sweet stuffed jujube, poached chicken wrapped around a salt-cured egg yolk, or smoky fried smelt. – San Francisco Magazine (06.22.18)